ANKARA CAP PRODUCTION

ANKARA CAP PRODUCTION

Ankara commonly known as “Ankara prints”, “African prints”, “African wax prints” “Holland wax” and “Dutch wax”, is a 100% cotton fabric with vibrant patterns. It is usually a colorful cloth and is primarily associated with Africa because of its tribal-like patterns and motifs

It is also a very versatile fabric and many items can be made from it such as hats, earrings, blazers, and shoes to name a few. To make ankara an even more versatile fabric, fashion brands and fabric suppliers have manufactured ankara prints on fabrics like chiffon, silk, spandex for clothing such as kaftans, iro and bubas, bathing suits, sports bars, leggings & socks.

Ankara print fabrics are made through an Indonesian wax-resist dyeing technique called batik. In this technique, methods are used to “resist” the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern. The lack of divergence in color intensity helps with the determination of the (front) right and (back) wrong side of the fabric.

Ankara is used to make various goods, including clothing (especially footwear), in bookbinding, and as a furniture covering. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles, decorated by a wide range of techniques. The Ankara fabric manufacturing process is divided into three fundamental sub-processes: preparatory stages, tanning, and crusting. A further sub-process, surface coating, can be added into the leather process sequence, but not all leathers receive surface treatment.

The preparatory stages are when the hide is prepared for tanning. Preparatory stages may include: liming, deliming, hair removal, degreasing, bleaching, and pickling.

PLANTS AND MACHINERIES USED FOR ANKARA CAP PRODUCTION

Cutting tools

1. With straight and curved blades, plus a protective surface for cutting.
   A hand-sewing leather punch. This little gadget pierces holes in several sizes, from a needle-size hole up to 3/16-inch diameter, so you can hand-sew through layers that can’t be stitched by machine.
2. Crop-A-Dile II Big Bite Punch. With its long reach, this punch can pierce holes beyond the immediate edge.
3. Scalloping shears. These shears create a decorative finish on nonraveling edges.
4. Safety beveler. This thins the edges of heavier leathers.

Cutting Aids

1. Awl. The awl’s point is handy for marking leather in preparation for cutting, as well as for piercing holes.
2. Clear grid ruler with metal cutting edge. The clear plastic enables you to see under the ruler, the grid helps you measure, and the steel edge prevents the knife from damaging the ruler.
3. Cloth weight (sometimes called a pattern weight). This tool, used in the tailoring industry, is indispensable. It is the perfect size and weight to hold patterns in place without pins while cutting, and it prevents the work from shifting or falling off the table. I also like to use it as a safety measure on top of a ruler while I am cutting with a knife. It is an extra barrier between my fingers and the blade.

Adhesives

1. Double-face tape. This tacky, repositionable tape secures layers so you can stitch accurately. The seam remains flexible.
2. Craft Cement. This water-based glue has no odor and gives you time to work with it before it sets.
3. Glue dots. Tiny scrapbooking dots are good for when you need a small amount of glue.

Stitching substitutes

1. Rivets, setter, and anvil. When you can’t machine sew, pierce a hole, then hand-sew and/or add rivets.
2. Snap setter and snaps. It firmly sets the snaps without any shifting of the prongs.

Pressing tools

1. Rubber mallet. Use this to flatten areas instead of pressing them with an iron. I keep a couple in different weights and sizes.
2. Miniature anvil. Lay the work over the anvil and pound with the mallet. Use small rocks to get into tight areas where the anvil doesn’t fit.
3. Hard pressing surface. A 12-inch square tile, at least 1-1/4 inches thick, works well; back it with felt so it does not damage your table.

Finishing touches

1. Leather paints and gum tragacanth. Finish raw edges with one of these sealants.
2. Stainless-steel edge paddle. This is the perfect little tool for applying paints to an edge. One end is square while the other is rounded. The tip shapes enable you to apply precisely without any waste.

MATERIALS NEED FOR PRODUCTION OF ANKARA CAP

1. Ankara fabric (top fabric)
2. Lining fabric
3. Iron
4. Sewing matching
5. Paper
6. Pins
7. Fabric scissors
8. Paper scissors
9. Marker
10. Ruler

ANKARA CAP PRODUCTION PROCESS

Step One – Steam It!

Take a felted rabbit hood, a loose hat shape, and spray it with a water bottle. Wrap it in a plastic bag, wait for condensation to do its thing. Then place the damp hood onto the steamer.

Step Two – Shape It!

Pull the steamed hood onto a block, a form made from cherrywood, “quite quickly before it dries.”

Rope It! on the rope line to create the perfect brim.

Sink it by using a tipper or sinker, a complimentary piece of the block that’s used to shape the top part of the hat.

Step Three – Dry It!

Air dry the newly formed hat for one day, or place it in the oven for an hour.

Step Four – Secure It!

A grosgrain (pronounced grow-grain) is a strip of ribbed fabric made from cotton and rayon that prevents the felt from stretching and makes it so your hat doesn’t fly away on a windy day. It’s sewn in by hand or machine.

Step Five – Wet It!

But only a little bit…the grosgrain is formed by wetting it slightly with a sponge.

Zap It! on the hotblock, the offspring of a cherrywood block and an iron, to set the shape of the grosgrain and lock in the hat’s size

Step Six – Embellish It!

SAMPLES OF PRODUCED ANKARA CAP